The board might have sympathised! with the growers of what used to be Australian sherry however in recognition of Spain’s claim to that name, Australia had to invent its own name for the wine: apero. It’s a sentiment winemaker Mandy Jones, whose training and experience encompass France and Australia, can echo proudly. In the case of Rutherglen’s Jones Winery and Vineyard, the name of the wine may have changed, but quality is a constant.
Her uncle was Rutherglen’s redoubtable Les Jones. I have been a long-time devotee of Les’ rustic but heartfelt wines. One of my cherished memories is of him dismounting his tractor, booting aside the fiercely somnolent attack dog and sternly snarling: ‘I suppose you want to try some wines before you buy,’ quickly followed by a welcoming grin and a hearty handshake. He then insisted I try his fino from a barrel.
Twenty five years later I find myself looking at an elegantly sleek glass-stoppered trendy 500ml bottle of Jones Apero. The golden amber hue and wafty lift of candied mandarin flows smoothly onto and through the palate. On its journey, it unwinds flavours almost too complex to describe in simple words. However, unleashed is an abundance of mouthfilling honeyed generosity underpinned by savoury floral notes provided by a superbly crafted blend of trebbiano and pedro ximinéz grapes from the area. Its pitch nudges towards the sweeter oloroso scale with sherry undertones and white port higher notes. This is a luscious warming wine that would reward and please devotees of both genres equally.
61 Jones Road,
Rutherglen, Victoria
www.joneswinery.com
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