Its been an extremely successful two years for Wodonga chef David Kapay, since we first reported on the opening of Miss Amelie – a restaurant that continues to shine with his exceedingly well-balanced fare. Set inside the historic former Wodonga railway station, the modern-Australian eatery features a large open kitchen and softly formal dining room with hot-pink decor accents and fine art prints by Canadian illustrator Jenny Liz Rome.

New to the venue is the clever transformation of the entry space – now superbly dressed as the sleek after-five bar aptly titled Little Miss. The entry features feminine and very fancy hot pink neon backing onto a Victorian ash mid-centry modern-style wood slat wall. The bar, lined with marble herringbone tiles and brass and leather diner stools, forms a contemporary foundation to the quirkly-cool space that also includes an indoor wall garden and designer floating-tulip fireplace. To one corner, a glass-walled wine room houses some of the region’s best drops.

We sample the Amelie Tonic – Hendricks gin, Capi tonic (Gippsland) and cucumber slice served alongside a colourful and generously-sized charcuterie platter. The G&T plays with the senses as it’s served tall in a wine glass topped with a sprig of rosemary that adds an extra sensory aromatic layer to the drink.

The platter features a wagyu bresaola that’s intensely beautiful and deep in colour with sweet and nutty flavours. David’s chicken terrine with pistachio nuts is a class act, and also a great match to his Brit-inspired piccalilli. And with the addition of truffled salami, the offering proves a touch of decadence not usually found outside a capital city.

Little Miss: John Dory with pencil leek, tarragon powder and vermouth (cream) vongole with Piano Piano (Beechworth) Chardonnay,; Charcuterie Platter with the Amelie Tonic

While the dining room is a fine choice for larger groups, or for an intimate meal for two, we opt for a casual high-table bite of the John Dory with pencil leek, tarragon powder and vermouth (cream) vongole. Perfectly paired with a glass of Piano Piano (Beechworth) Chardonnay, its gentle floral and citrus aromas weighted with peach stone work well with the fish. Its clean and fresh acidity is also brilliant in the warmer North East spring/summer climate. While the vermouth adds an attractive soft acidity elevating the sweet and succulent clams, fine strands of fried ginger add an opposing touch of heat and depth. Kipfler potatoes, dill and chervil add body and further fresh aromatics.

Wodonga chef David Kapay

Little Miss Wine Bar is open Tuesday- Saturday, 4-11pm and Saturdays for lunch from 12-3pm. Happy Hour 5-7pm.
46 Elgin Blvd, Wodonga, Victoria

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