In a town that knows and loves food and wine, hospitality-operator virgins Michael and Heather Allan (ex Yeppoon, Queensland) certainly had their work cut out. But within weeks of purchasing Beechworth’s former Green Shed Bistro, they managed to relocate interstate, find all new staff, redecorate and smartly craft a mighty fine food and wine menu that managed to impress the locals – an outstanding effort to say the least.
Now going by the apt title The Press Room Wine Bar, the former 1800s print shop has been transformed into a much warmer, more socially relaxed, Spanish wine and tapas bar. It opened on Queen’s Birthday weekend 2014 and is reported to be filling tables night after night.
Michael Allan speaks with excitement about what he and Heather witness during service:
‘Tapas inspires conversation and mingling between tables – you’d don’t see this sort of thing in any other kind of restaurant or bar. Complete strangers seem to strike up conversations quite regularly, and even wind up sampling each other’s plates – the whole feel is so wonderfully friendly.
‘We’ve also noticed that many locals have re-connected here, several who’ve not spoken in years. And we’re now getting loads of requests to book out the front lounge space – complete with open fire and soft furnishings – for both dining and drinks; it’s extremely popular.’
For those that know the space well, you’ll appreciate the new interior tweaks which reveal Heather and Michael’s attention to detail. An assortment of vintage Edison-style incandescent globe pendulum lights warm the main dining area, while touches of Spanish red, vintage posters and eye-catchingly indulgent flower arrangements add colour and interest. A quirky bullfighter lithograph above the central fireplace mirrors the adventurous nature and positive energy of the hosts.
As the room heats up – guests arrive and two fires are roaring – we sample a well-respected north-western Spanish 2011 Montenovo (wine name) Godello (varietal name) from producer Valdesil. It’s a rich gold colour, its nose complex and classy with fragrances of pear, stone fruit, and orange blossom. This is a nicely matured medium weight white wine boasting a juiciness and appeal crafted with a fantastically firm yet ideal acid balance – just right for tapas.
We pair this with the recommended Pincho de Pollo: succulent chargrilled chicken skewers lightly marinated with parprika and oregano, and a mouthwatering serve of 24-month-aged Ibérico Jamón. Cured to perfection, this ham glistens with marbled fat that melts at room temperature. These mono triglycerides are healthy, say the Spanish producers, like olive oil. Everything in balance, right? The flavour is sweet and slightly nutty, the texture buttery. If you haven’t tried quality Ibérico Jamón before, then a tasting of this fine ham should prove a magical treat.
Next up, a modest pour of the Cillar de Silos 2013 Joven (young) Tempranillo. Although this is a simple young wine it manages to express itself with a strikingly bright cherry nose and added nuances of dark chocolate. There’s a certain clean candied sweetness that I admire so much in Spanish reds. It is earthy and honest, but does take time to truly open up. Perhaps sip this one slowly and enjoy conversation and more tapas.
With that we try the well-executed Catalan Potato Bombas. Hiding a surprise interior ‘bomb’ of tender-cooked spicy chorizo and onion these golden crunchy-crumbed little numbers arrive topped with the obligatory and brilliant Canary Islands Mojo Picón Sauce, comprising red capsicum, warming spices and olive oil. Easy eating, super tasty, respectfully Frank Camorra inspired – and why not!
To match the earthy deep nose of the award-winning 2010 Banda Verde Rioja Paternina 100 percent tempranilo from northern Spain, a more serious, larger offering is required. The Press Room’s slow-braised oloroso sherry beef cheek with a silken-rich parsnip purée and jus proves a good match. The meat is firm enough to hold shape, while the slightest touch of a fork shreds it apart. The sherry jus is a rich, fine match to the spiced fragrances of this feature wine.
By now, we notice, the tables have quietly turned over: a second round of happy faces and mouths keep the room alive with their comfortably volumed, convivial chatter. We overhear Michael telling one group of how being a new ‘youthful’ sommelier and front of house manager has changed his life.
‘Best job I’ve ever had… love, love, love,’ he sings with glee of his new-found passion.
And so indeed, this writer notes, Heather and Michael’s foodie adventure born of that Spanish passion had proved infectious; they have hit a winning streak. The Granisado del Carajillo finale, a coffee and rum granita, is no exception. Big bang for your buck and loads of fun. Beechworth has woken from its siesta.
Open: Wed-Sun, 5-11pm
37 Camp Street, Beechworth, Victoria
Tel 03 5728 2360
www.thepressroomwinebar.com.au
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